I'd forgotten the Sunday evening rituals. Stroll the main square, have a gelato. But sit down for dinner at a restaurant? Life is too short (and Italy's 23% unemployment doesn't help). So here I am, enjoying an absurdly cheap pizza and half liter of the house red in solitary splendor. But tomorrow the Via Appia! Actually, I'm on it now, or at least the contemporary Via Appia (in this area, the seaside main drag). Which seems to resonate with the locals about as much as as I ever notice the iconic Federal architecture outside my office window in Washington.
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