I walked the remainder of the Camino Primitivo this morning. Twenty-odd kilometers with no "towns" bigger than a few adjoining farm houses. No bars or stores of any sort. Beautiful country but hollowed out by abandonment. Then the Primitivo reached Melide, where it joins the Camino Francés, the happening camino. Zing-zing. Hordes of jostling pilgrims. Cool young guys in pursuit of girls made up for a college mixer. The Primitivo is a hiker crowd, grimy and proud of it. The Francés is a mobile meet-up. I walked about 15 kilometers after lunch in Melide on the Francés to Arzúa. After zero bars on this morning's Primitivo, there were 15 or 20 on the Francés, complete wth large patios and table umbrellas. Plus a few fruit stands.
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